In Itero

Oct. 1st, 2008 08:24 pm
anna_en_route: (Default)
[personal profile] anna_en_route
And having done 30 kilometers today...feeling pretty smug.

First Burgos, the Cathedral is beyond wonderful, I think people are right and that it does top Notre Dame in Paris. The albergue was fantastic and the walk out of Burgos was so much nicer than the walk in (it reminds me a little of Christchurch with all of the tree lined avenues).

There was a stork on top of an arch near the cathedral so I went photo crazy.

The Camino is possibly the only place where construction workers yelling at you from scaffolding is a good thing (an arrow had rubbed off of a tree and I was about to miss a turnoff).

I stayed that night in Hornillos which has improved markedly over the last time I stayed there.

Today I was planning to stay in Castorojeriz but I found that the albergue I stayed in last time was closed and that I didn´t like the look of the others at all (they even banned charging things off of their power supply) so I walked in a sulk. I stopped for a sit down in San Nicholas but unfortunately they´re conducting repairs so I couldn´t stay. I did get an apple from them though and some water which was lovely.

I walked on for another kilometer over the Meseta to Itero where I found a wonderful nearly empty albergue with the best menu del dia that I´ve had on the Camino so far.

I hope 30k doesn´t knock me out as badly this time but even if it does I´m glad I did it once.

I´m not hating the Meseta quite so much this time but it´s early days yet.

Oooh and also today I ran accross some proto pilgrims who were let off their bus near Hontanas and then scooped up again in the ruins of San Anton after a hearty lunch of sausages from their personal chef. I can´t help but think that they´re missing some of the best parts of the camino by only doing tiny pieces of it. Still I hope they get something out of it. It certainly felt surreal to be flooded with new faces attached to cameras.

Date: 2008-10-01 06:42 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile]
Be brazen! I twice crashed meals for bus tour pilgrims.

Date: 2008-10-02 12:12 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile]
I think I´m a little too dusty and non-German to get away with it.

Date: 2008-10-01 06:55 pm (UTC)
From: (Anonymous)
Vultures and a stork....How lucky can you get.. its a bit late in the year for storks..we certainly never managed to see one either camino! Nice that you stopped at San Nicholas.. even if only for an apple and water.. they are so helpful there.


Date: 2008-10-01 07:12 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] (from
June is a great time of year for storks K.....I was even lucky enough to see baby storks flying!
We met a 'plastic pilgrim' when three of us were walking out of Leon early morning. She was Japanese, and dressed/ made-up to the nines. She had obviously been out for a little wander from the Parador before her bus left. As soon as she saw us, she whipped out her camera. But to do her credit, she then asked if we were 'pilgrims', and asked if it was OK to take our photo. Then she told us that she was a pilgrim too, and that she would see us in Santiago!!! (I don't mean to sound too cynical- it was a lovely encounter, even if she had no idea how long it was going to take us to cover the 300km she might do in a day!)

Re: storks!

Date: 2008-10-01 07:45 pm (UTC)
From: (Anonymous)
yes.. I marvelled at a small group of pilgrims who seemed so clean and tidy and organised.. they even seemed to manage with tiny backpacks.. until I rounded a corner once to find them with their support car!

I tried to stay open minded as I know that one pilgrim I walked with who regularely caught buses was actually 6 months pregnant.. she just didn't look it. Another time we stayed in an Galician albergue with a bus tour of older german women who planned to walk only a token few kilometres each day. We met them the next day and some had actually walked the entire distance for the first time.. they had no idea they could actually do it and were so excited and proud of themselves!

Re: storks!

Date: 2008-10-02 12:20 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile]
I guess everyone walks the Camino that they can ( I know people with heart conditions who get their luggage carried and people who have dodgey knees who have to take buses for long stretches and there´s always the 100k I went by train last time).

It´s just the tour group/ hotels/ skipping most of the Camino aspect of it that throws me a little and makes me feel as if they might be missing out some key aspect of the Camino.

Re: storks!

Date: 2008-10-02 10:21 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] (from
I don't think there are any 'rules', and each person does what matters to them. I quite often walked with someone who started in Cahors, and who needed to take the bus/taxi sometimes as she had serious knee problems. The first time she did it she had already walked a distance equivalent to the whole Camino Frances anyhow. But she always felt 'racked with guilt', as if she was cheating. One day when she had walked ten kilometres to Villafranca, she then decided with her husband that she needed to get a taxi to their day's endpoint while he walked there, as O'Cebreiro lay ahead next day. In Vega de Valcarce she was 'attacked' by some self-righteous prig of a pilgrim who said she 'hadn't walked there'. (There was no lack of beds, and she had walked 10km.....) By this stage we were helping her to take it easy so she could get to Sarria in good shape, to make sure she was able to walk the last 100km and get her Compostela.

Date: 2008-10-02 12:14 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile]
And a squirrel and a lot of lizards =)

Did the Italian hospitalero when you were there have a dog called Luna?

Date: 2008-10-02 08:25 pm (UTC)
From: (Anonymous)
No.. but I think that the hospitalero changes every two weeks or so.. we were there at changeover time between the two. I used to close quite early in September too.. i wonder if that is why they are renovating now.

Date: 2008-10-01 08:17 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile]
my brain has gone bung, i read the subject line as In Utero

Date: 2008-10-01 09:39 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile]
As did I. Quite a start you gave me, Ms Anna.

On occasion I would pose for the tourists' cameras, if they would buy me a drink. As well, when they are doing group photographs, sneak into the background and pretend that you are overwhelmed with the journey, and barely able to stand.

Date: 2008-10-02 12:15 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile]
That would have been....a significantly more interesting post =)

Date: 2008-10-02 07:47 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile]
indeed it would

Date: 2008-10-01 08:28 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile]
i hope i get to see some of these photos...!
it continues to just sound wonderful.

Date: 2008-10-02 12:17 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile]
If you message me your e-mail address I can pass over some of the photos from the Aragonese route that other people who were on it at the same time have sent me (it seems wrong to post them up for general view without permission but there´s nothing scandalous in them).

Date: 2008-10-03 01:38 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile]
eee! badjelly2 [at]


anna_en_route: (Default)

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